Maw’s latest is a feast for the eyes—and the stomach, too
Restaurant openings like that of Kirkland Tap and Trotter make a girl really resent a 500 word limit. I need 5,000—at least!—so I can gush about the décor, the drinks, the dishes, and Sofia, my superstar server. Yes, it is essential that all of my current allotted space be used to reveal the merits of the slightly phallic, but perfectly spaced light fixtures that hang above the bar.
But since I have limitations, I’ll delete the word phallic and move on…
KT&T is the second restaurant of chef and restauranteur Tony Maws. Maw’s first restaurant, Craigie on Main, earned him a James Beard Award in 2011 (for those of you who don’t know, “James Beard” Award is synonymous with put-whatever-comes-out-the-kitchen-in-your-mouth-immediately Award). At Craigie, servers wear freshly-pressed, head-to-toe black; but at KT&T everybody working who’s not wearing a chef coat dons blue jeans and plaid button ups. KT&T is more casual than its sister restaurant, but in no way less immaculate. The space was occupied previously by Kirkland Cafe, and then when the cafe closed, was vacant for almost six years. Lucky for food lovers, Maws removed the ply wood boards on the building-length front windows. The renovation is beautiful; the interior is all wood floors, exposed ceiling beams, and fresh paint. The room actually sparkles. I swear!
Once you’ve taken your seat—whether it be at the bar, the communal high-top, or a cozy table in the back corner—look around. Not only will you notice the smart and simple design choices, you’ll notice that you can notice these things. The trend in gastropubs is lighting so dim that you can loose your way back to your seat after a jaunt to the bathroom. The room is refreshingly bright. One can see their dining companions and the food that sits atop their plate!
Speaking of plates, food at KT&T is prepared in an open kitchen and meant to be shared. Servers will instruct you to order a few plates for the table which is ideal because you’ll want to try everything. I recommend the homemade spaghetti; each noodle is perfectly coated with a delicate and delicious chicken liver, pumpkin, and brown butter sauce ($15).
Other noteworthy dishes include Moroccan-spiced carrot salad ($14), grilled Scottish salmon tail ($24), grilled Vadouvan lamb ribs ($15), and beer-braised veal ribs ($28). But really, they are all noteworthy. Local cheeses, local chocolates, and seasonal fruits are used in the desserts. I skipped the sweets because I had already eaten half of the savory fare offerings, but the options were tempting nonetheless.
To the lushes in my audience: run to KT&T. The cocktail list is short but smart, featuring something for everyone whether your preference be sweet, smoky, or subtle. I recommend the Green + Grain: cucumber infused rye, Dry vermouth, Green Chartreuse and a cucumber slice ($10). If cocktails aren’t your vice, fear not. KT&T also has versatile beer and wine lists.
Well, what are you still doing here? Go on, eat!
KIRKLAND TAP AND TROTTER
425 WASHINGTON STREET
SOMERVILLE
KIRKLANDTAPANDTROTTER.COM
@TAPANDTROTTER