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EATS: THE BEAT HOTEL

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Putting the “chic” in “boho chic”

Opening just last month in Harvard Square, The Beat Hotel is the sister restaurant of signature South End hotspot, The Beehive. Like The Beehive, the space is underground and cavernous, and there is a swarm of hostesses and managers with headsets buzzing about.

The décor is familiar, but less funk, more nostalgic-nouveau-chic.

My chair was comfortable and the tablecloth was pristine. My eyes scanned the room, distracted from the lengthy menu of wines on tap by the neon peace sign, vibrant murals, exposed brick, beaded chandeliers, beads, beads, and more beads. From right to left the room glowed purple, pink, green, blue, purple, orange, red, yellow. A jazz band be-bopped-dee-be-bopped at the back of the room.

I turned to my friend and said, “This place is like a VW van with a fresh oil change, minus the spilled bong water.”

He replied, “That’s an oxymoron, if I’ve ever heard one.”

The Beat Hotel, in some ways, is just that; a hippie and beatnik-inspired establishment that lacks psychedelic grunge and beatitude; great live music seven nights a week but no dancing; a feast for the eyes but no photographs; a five-grain “Earth bowl” starting at $20; a bathroom that I swear was inspired by a dirty hostel I stayed at in Costa Rica but with a marble sink and sparkling toilet …

The menu is eclectic (or confused): French Onion Soup with Short Rib ($11), Pulled Lamb Nachos ($12), Hamachi Hashimi ($14), Eggplant and Zucchini Parmesan ($ 22), and Tandoori Spiced Halibut ($34), to name a few. You can find something for anyone in your party, assuming you don’t have a friend who only eats grilled cheese sandwiches (or a friend who is broke).

Despite my waiter’s enthusiastic recommendation of the Apple and Bacon Stuffed Rack of Pork ($26), I chose the Swordfish Tacos with Mole Black Beans ($27) with no regrets. My fish was cooked perfectly and the dish was delicate yet flavorful. My companion ordered the aforementioned nachos and a classic burger ($16.50). The nachos were interesting and the burger was a’ight.

Wine connoisseurs will be pleased by the lengthy list of wines on tap, and the longer list of wines by the bottle. If you’re a beginner to the sniff, swirl, sip, fear not. The menu has helpful descriptions to help you navigate. For example: “Gruner Vetliner: Medium Body, Citrus, Crisp, Mineral.” Still unsure? Waiters and bartenders are knowledgeable, and the beer and cocktail menus are as varied as the dinner menu.

So, if you’d like to tap your toes to some groovy tunes—and only tap your toes—head to The Beat Hotel. But expect a much lighter wallet upon leaving.

THE BEAT HOTEL. 13 BRATTLE STREET. CAMBRIDGE. BEATHOTEL.COM. @BEATHOTEL13



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